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AGA to Discuss Fluorescent Diamonds
— JCK-Jewelers Circular Keystone, 11/26/2007 10:06:00 AM
One of the most controversial questions in diamond grading today will be on the agenda when the Accredited Gemologists Association holds its all-day Tucson conference.
How do you color grade fluorescent diamonds, when the diamond’s fluorescence can sometimes enhance the inherent body color of the diamond? Serving on the panel of experts for this year’s event will be Sheldon Kwiat, President, Kwiat Inc; Stanley Hogrebe, Chairman, Dazor Lighting; Tom Tashey, CEO, Professional Gem Sciences; Peter Yantzer, executive director, AGS Laboratories; Jack Ogden, CEO, Gemmological Association of Great Britain (Gem-A); and Tom Moses, GIA/GTL.
The conference will be held Feb. 6, 2008, at the Marriott University Park Hotel.
New lighting units may soon be available, allowing for more accurate, and consistent color grading. These new lamps not only provide lighting to grade the true inherent body color, but also to grade the perceived color resulting from the presence of fluorescence. Can the laboratories change the way in which fluorescent diamonds are graded?
Conference chair, gemologist-author Antoinette Matlins notes that while there will be strong resistance from the trade to having a new color grading standard, there may be benefits that could outweigh the negatives. For example, the wording on diamond grading reports might indicate “body color” and the “perceived body color” in addition to the customary strength and color of the fluorescence. Truly colorless and near-colorless diamonds (D-J) could become rarer, and prices might strengthen. At the same time, reports on diamonds with blue fluorescence could indicate that the diamond, under certain lighting conditions, will appear as a higher color grade.
Matlins notes that this positive comment on fluorescence might reduce “the prejudice that now pervades the marketplace against fluorescent diamonds.”
Other conference topics include: “Changing the Colors—New Directions in Gemstone Treatments,” examining new types of treatments and detection methods; “Gemological Tips and Techniques,” a hands-on workshop, showing innovative ways to get the most out of classic gemological techniques used by independent gemologists.
Presenters include Alan Hodgkinson, FGA; James Shigley, GIA Distinguished Research Fellow; Ted Themelis, research gemologist; Lore Kiefert, Director, AGTA Gemological Testing Center; Christopher Smith, Vice President, American Gemological Laboratories; Jay Neogi, CEO, Serenity Technology; and Ron Kearns, President, Azotic Coating Technology.
The cost for the event is $195 for AGA members and guests, $250 for non-AGA members, including the gala dinner-dance, award ceremony and special celebration of “100 Years of Gemmological Education.” For those interested in attending only the evening gala, tickets are $75 for AGA members and guests, $100 for non-members. For more information or to register, contact Jan Giamanco at 619-501-5444 or visit the AGA Web site.
NICHE Awards Finalists
— JCK-Jewelers Circular Keystone, 11/27/2007 11:48:00 AM
NICHE magazine, the exclusive trade publication for retailers of American craft, has announced the 151 finalists for the 2008 NICHE Awards, including those in the Jewelry and Metal categories. Jurors More than 1,100 entries in 36 categories entered the contest.
Winners will be revealed at a ceremony on Feb. 17, 2008, at the Philadelphia Buyers Market of American Craft, the nation’s largest wholesale craft show. Finalists are invited to display their work in the NICHE Awards display at the show and are featured in the winter 2008 issue of NICHE magazine.
Finalists in the Jewelry category are:
Fashion
Affinity Pendant
Mayra Orama Muniz
Mio Studio
Lancaster, PA
De Tierra del Mar
Mar Marcotte
Mar of Santa Barbara
Santa Barbara, CA
Mobile Earrings
Victoria Varga
Cumberland, ME
Stone Pendant
Steven Maddy
Pattern Bank
San Diego, CA
Gold
3 Spokes
John Petet
J. Petet Designs
Monument, CO
Ballerina Ring
Emanuela Duca
New York, NY
Freeform Wedding Bands
John Leonard
John Leonard Studio
El Cerrito, CA
Milky Way Cuff
Nina Basharova
Nina Basharova Jewelry Design
New York, NY
Gold with Stones
Double Cup of Diamonds
John Petet
J. Petet Designs
Monument, CO
Pollination
Sowoon Joo
Ithaca, NY
Road Trip Ring
Isabelle Posillico
IS Design
Santa Rosa, CA
Untitled
Todd Reed
Boulder, CO
Yin Yang Pendant
Jacob Albee
Jacob Albee Goldsmith
Burlington, VT
Silver
2 Element Pod Pendant
Barbara Bayne
Montague, MA
Avocado
Hilary Hachey
Baltimore, MD
Ocean Flower Earings
Kathryn Osgood
Greenville, NC
Soundwave Cufflinks and Lapel Pin
Danielle Crampsie
Toronto, ON, Canada
Triptych Marquise
Danielle Miller-Gilliam
Danielle Miller Jewelry
Greenville, SC
Silver with Stones
Attitude
Jeffrey Appling
Jeffrey Appling/JEA Jewelry
Palm Springs, CA
Bubble Bracelet #5
Danielle Miller-Gilliam
Danielle Miller Jewelry
Greenville, SC
Canoe Ring
Belle Brooke Barer
Belle Brooke Designs
Los Angeles, CA
Shinayakasa
Birgit Kupke-Peyla
Salinas, CA
Sculpture to Wear
Bouncing Ball
Joan Dulla
Chandler, AZ
Car Earrings
Kristin Lora
Kristin Lora Studios
Santa Fe, NM
Cube
Sowon Joo
Ithaca, NY
Ebony Towers
Suzanne Linquist
Red Circle Metals
Junction City, OR
Lotus Necklace
Chihiro Makio
314 Studio
Somerville, MA
Finalists in the Metal category are:
Enameled
Kaleidoscope
Lisa Hawthorne
Coquille, OR
Memoria
Tricia Lachowiec
Tricia Lachowiec Jewelry
Fall River, MA
Starfish
Wendy McAllister
Stevenson, MD
Waterlily #2 Pin
Amy Roper Lyons
Summit, NJ
Fabricated/Forged
B10 Decade
Matthew Conable
William Henry Studio
McMinnville, OR
Flame Folding Knife
Donald Bell
Bell Knives
Bedford, NS, Canada
Prop Table
Tripp Gregson
TrippworX
Liberty, NC
Sculpture III
Nancy Linkin
Camden, ME
Hollowware
Federation Square Flask
Paul Weller
Austin Creations
Asheville, NC
Foggy Bottom Vase
Jennifer Banks
Jennifer Banks Designs
Napa, CA
Origami Teapot
Yoko Noguchi
Smithville, TN
Pink & Blue 2
David Bausman
Laredo, TX
Wave Vase
Isabelle Posillico
IS Designs
Santa Rosa, CA
Thanksgiving to Christmas Web Sales Up 21%
— JCK-Jewelers Circular Keystone, 12/30/2007 10:19:00 AM
Online retail sales between Thanksgiving and Christmas, which represents the core of the holiday shopping season, totaled $17.9 billion, a 21 percent increase over the same period of 2006, comScore, Inc. reports.
For the entire 2007 holidays season to date (Nov. 1 – Dec. 27), $28 billion has been spent online, a 19-percent gain year-over-year, according to the Reston, Va.-based company, which measures digital data. While it is strong gain, it was far below the 26 percent growth rate recorded in 2006.
“Warm weather during the early part of November took its toll on online retail sales and played a role in holding down the growth in spending over the entire holiday season,” said comScore chairman Gian Fulgoni. “However, if we look at the period between Thanksgiving and Christmas, we see online spending growing at a healthier 21-percent rate, which I think is encouraging given the economic challenges facing consumers this year as a result of higher gas prices, lower home values, and a jittery stock market.”
Fulgoni noted that consumers are still shopping online in force after Christmas.
“Even as the holiday shopping season winds down after Christmas, we continue to see some relatively strong online spending days,” Fulgoni said. “For example, the day after Christmas saw online sales of $545 million, more than double the sales on the same day last year. This would appear to indicate that consumers were willing and able to take advantage of the attractive late-season promotions and price discounts offered by retailers this year.”
ComScore figures exclude travel, auctions, and large corporate purchases.
Oceanaut Debuts at Nordstrom
— JCK-Jewelers Circular Keystone, 12/12/2007 5:48:00 PM
Southern California watch manufacturer, Oceanaut, launched its 2008 collection of men and womens timepieces at Nordstrom stores.
The company’s latest collection of fine watches made their official debut at select Nordstrom stores before Thanksgiving. The Oceanaut timepieces range in price from $1,095 to $14,500 retail.
The gents and ladies collections for 2008 have Latin names that include Acquatico, Baltica, Baccara, Cortez Limited Edition, Carrero, and Conquistador. It features classic chronographs and unique divers with precision movements from Switzerland, Swiss manufacturing, conflict-free diamonds from Africa, hand stitched leather straps from Italy, French alligator straps, and precious metals from the United States. Oceanaut’s designer and co-founder, Danny Blair, inspired by Russian pilot watches, created a 52 mm case on their new sought-after Baltica.
In July, Oceanaut supplied custom engraved matching "His" and "Hers" Oceanaut Pacha Cobra diamond watches to a number of Hollywood newlyweds—most notably “Desperate Housewives” star Eva Longoria and professional basketball ace, Tony Parker, whose marriage has been billed as “the celebrity wedding of the year.”
Since then, the privately held watch company has attained celebrity following that includes Kevin Connolly, Teri Hatcher, Maria Menounos, Vanessa Minillo, Courtney Cox and David Arquette, Diddy, Sugarland, Keith Urban, Serena and Venus Williams, Jason Taylor, and Wolfgang Puck.
Dalumi to Fund Children’s Village in Botswana
— JCK-Jewelers Circular Keystone, 12/5/2007 8:00:00 AM
The Dalumi Group diamond company said it will support the social development organization SOS Children’s Villages by donating to SOS Children’s Village Tlokweng in Gaborone, Botswana.
The children’s village of Tlokweng includes 16 family houses. Dalumi said it will fund the yearly purchases of food, clothes, medications, and school materials for a family house that accommodates 12 children.
The move by Dalumi followed its of Dalumi as one of 16 sightholders by DTC Botswana.
The charity initiative was officially announced on Nov. 28 when Hang Van Den Broeck, acting general manager of Dalumi Botswana, Derek James, national director of SOS Children’s Village Association in Botswana, met the children’s village staff and visited the family house in the Tlokweng village.
“Being part of this project enables Dalumi to be really close to the local population, supporting their needs and continuing the ethical and responsible way in which we conduct our business” says Yuval Kemp, director of Marketing and BD at the Dalumi Group. “I’m proud to highlight that our commitment is a long lasting one. At the end of the first year of this project we will meet again with SOS Children’s Villages Botswana and discuss ways to develop our support to this project based on the feedback we’ll receive."
Brittany Murphy Gets Every Woman’s Dream…Twice!
Brittany Murphy has managed to surprise us all by pulling off a secret wedding to screenwriter Simon Monjack. The two were married in their Los Angeles home several weeks ago in an intimate ceremony surrounded by their families, her rep says. As if that werent shocking enough Brittany actually settling down with someone this one ought to turn heads. She ended up with two engagement rings because she couldnt make her mind up! According to the jeweler who helped them, the couple couldnt decide which ring they liked best, so they bought both. She got two big platinum and diamond cushion-cut whoppers one big white and one big yellow. This has only left people wondering, who exactly paid for the diamonds? But according to Simon they are very much in love and enjoying every minute of married life. Guess thats all that matters then. - written by Sarah Baltic -
Q and A with H. Marvin Beasley
Q and A with H. Marvin Beasley
December 01, 2007
Staying fixed on diamonds keeps Helzberg in fast lane
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| H. Marvin Beasley, chairman and chief executive officer of Missouri-based jewelry chain Helzberg Diamonds. |
By Glen A. Beres
North Kansas City, Mo.—H. Marvin Beasley is chairman and chief executive officer of Helzberg Diamonds, a North Kansas City, Mo.-based jewelry chain of approximately 275 stores owned by holding company Berkshire Hathaway.
In an exclusive interview with National Jeweler, Beasley discussed key industry trends, how Helzberg has leveraged technology and branding to get ahead, and the growth opportunities he sees for the company going forward.
National Jeweler: Which factors have made Helzberg Diamonds successful?
H. Marvin Beasley: Helzberg Diamonds has a longstanding tradition of service excellence, quality and integrity, and these elements of our business philosophy are major contributors to our long-term success.
We strive to provide our customers with an outstanding experience that extends from the time they first enter our store through the years that they own their fine jewelry. In this way, we develop long-lasting relationships with our customers that continue through the generations.
NJ: Where are the best growth opportunities for your jewelry business?
HB: Diamonds, and bridal and fashion offerings, in particular, have been and continue to be the foundation of the Helzberg Diamonds assortment.
We supplement this core inventory with selections in colored gemstones, pearls, karat gold and watches. Exclusive brands have become important to our business as well.
We market our product through a variety of media, with emphasis on print and outdoor advertising, supported by radio and television in key markets. We also strategically utilize electronic media to target customers who are accustomed to receiving information via this channel.
NJ: Which major trends do you see shaping the jewelry industry right now?
HB: One of the most prevalent trends has been customers demanding social and environmental responsibility from retailers. It is becoming increasingly important for fine-jewelry retailers to be accountable to customers, demonstrating that the company operates in a way that meets the highest standards for human rights, social responsibility and environmental stewardship.
NJ: How has online retailing affected the jewelry business?
HB: Online retailing in general, and in the jewelry industry in particular, has created an environment in which consumers have access to vast information and purchasing options. As a result, customers are more likely to have done preliminary research and to have developed a level of knowledge about jewelry prior to entering a retail store. In addition, exposure to a wider selection of styles and price points has the potential to influence customers’ ideas about what they wish to purchase.
This vast amount of information and selection available online also has caused customers to be more comfortable purchasing jewelry online, and online sales are increasing. All of these factors combine to create a highly competitive retail landscape in which multichannel selling opportunities must be leveraged, and in which integrity, excellence and a reputation for quality are critical.
IDL appoints chief quality officer
IDL appoints chief quality officer
December 06, 2007
Dubai, United Arab Emirates—International Diamond Laboratories (IDL) has appointed Peter Borgmans as chief quality officer of its global lab operations.
He will serve as a liaison between customers and the lab, and will secure consistent diamond-grading results.
Borgmans’ background certainly makes him ready for his task.
He was recently involved in quality management for Polygon, one of the leading online marketplaces for diamonds and jewelry. Prior to that, he served for 27 years as HRD’s quality manager in the Certificates Department, where he was responsible for initiating accreditation of diamond labs in accordance with ISO standards.
He has also worked as the secretary of the International Diamond Council, a working group of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses that standardizes grading systems of all diamond laboratories.
IDL Chief Executive Officer Peter Meeus said Borgmans’ expertise in the field of ISO standards and quality management supplements IDL’s strategy of consistent diamond grading.
“We are convinced the trade will appreciate having a dedicated and independent expert as the single point of contact regarding all grading results,” he said in a media release.
IDL believes that having a single quality officer through which to channel all discussions on grading results will avoid any direct contact with or influencing of the graders.
EXCLUSIVE: Majors execs walk the high-volume wire
EXCLUSIVE: Majors execs walk the high-volume wire
December 01, 2007
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| Terry Burman, CEO of Signet Group, the parent of Sterling Jewelers. |
New York—As part of our Who’s Who in the Majors supplement, National Jeweler interviewed some of the top names in the high-volume retail jewelry business.
These executives spoke frankly about growth opportunities, challenges, the impacts of the Internet and how doing business in the jewelry industry these days also means doing good.
In an exclusive interview, Terry Burman, chief executive officer of Signet Group, explains how executing the basics, such as merchandising and customer service, as well as paying attention to what will happen in the long-term versus the short-term, has helped make Sterling Jewelers the top specialty retailer in the United States.
In an era of diminishing returns on diamonds, H. Marvin Beasley, chairman and chief executive officer of Helzberg Diamonds, explains how the retailer has continued to make the most of the category through tradition, service and quality.
Peter Engel, president of Fred Meyer Jewelers, gives insight on how to offer consumers value, the challenges and advantages of being in malls or shopping centers, and how the Internet has become an ally for the chain.
Fortunoff Fine Jewelry Executive Vice President Esther Fortunoff discusses the retailer’s growth plans, its success in promoting new designers and how jewelers are coming under increased scrutiny when it comes to social responsibility and ethical issues.
Robert Taylor, president and chief executive officer of Honolulu-based Maui Divers, speaks of how the island-themed jeweler is looking at growth on the U.S. mainland and beyond, as well as in cyberspace.
Editor’s note: For the complete Who’s Who in the Majors supplement, see the December issue of National Jeweler.
Tiffany Marks Success of Sierra Leone Project
Rob Bates, Senior Editor — JCK-Jewelers Circular Keystone, 12/5/2007 3:53:00 PM
Tiffany and Co. held an event Dec. 3 at its flagship store in New York to “celebrate the success” of the Tiffany and Co. Foundation’s support for FESS, The Foundation for Environmental Security and Sustainability, a governmental organization that reclaims land in Sierra Leone previously used for mining.
The project has put into motion a process to empower communities in Sierra Leone to reclaim land, develop alternative land use, increase food and livelihood security, and reduce the potential for conflict, a Tiffany statement said.
“By reclaiming mined-out diamond areas, we’re helping heal the scars of Sierra Leone and creating a new future for the people of Sierra Leone,” said Darci Glass-Royal, chairman of FESS, “Formerly pitted, unusable land now yields jobs, stability and food for the country.”
The event was attended by officials from Sierra Leone, including its U.S. ambassador, the Paramount Chief of the Kono Region, Paul Ngaba Saquee V, and singer-songwriter Ben Jelen who is known for his commitment to environmental causes..
The event premiered a short film documentary, which showed how the communities in Sierra Leone have reclaimed their land at three project sites, and put it to agricultural use.
“When land reclamation takes place and is followed by agriculture, artisanal mining begins to lose its character as the employment of last resort for all-too-numerous jobless youths,” said Daniel Gbondo, FESS field representative in Sierra Leone. “Artisanal mining will continue for some time to come, but with land reclamation, the serious hazards posed by mining pits are significantly reduced, and artisanal mining can continue as part of a balanced transition for the region.”