May 2008

MJSA: CAD/CAM, lasers impact jewelry-making

MJSA: CAD/CAM, lasers impact jewelry-making
May 02, 2008

Providence, R.I.&x#2014;Manufacturing Jewelers and Suppliers of America (MJSA) has published a new survey on the usage of CAD/CAM technology and laser welders, which reveals that the tools have a firm foothold in the jewelry industry, particularly among custom designers and manufacturers.

The survey was conducted among MJSA members and MJSA Journal readers, who were queried about how CAD/CAM and lasers are impacting the way jewelry is made today. The results, along with commentary by CAD/CAM consultant David Olson and laser expert Bob Staley, appear in the May issue of the MJSA Journal.

The survey reveals that 42 percent of respondents use some form of in-house CAD/CAM, and 32 percent use laser welders in their operations.

The greatest in number popular use for CAD, according to respondents, is to create custom designs for customers, and more than half of those who responded to the survey said they use CAD as a sales tool, a technology that differentiates them from competitors.

As for laser technology, the survey finds that 32 percent of respondents possess even now invested in lasers, and 34 percent said they planned to do so within the next several years. in the midst of the companies who did have lasers, respondents said the investments typically paid for themselves in two years or less.

“We hope that the MJSA Technology Survey will answer some of the questions that jewelry-makers have about CAD/CAM and lasers, as well as help them make informed decisions about the applications of these technologies in their operations,” MJSA Journal Editor in Chief Tina Wojtkielo Snyder said in a media release.

The survey was conducted by MJSA with the assistance of the Crescendo Consulting Group in Portland, Me.

For more information or to obtain a copy of the May issue of the MJSA Journal, contact MJSA at (800) 444-6572 or e-mail info@mjsa.org.

Leviev’s Dubai stores controversial

Leviev’s Dubai stores controversial
May 02, 2008

Dubai, United Arab Emirates—Billionaire diamantaire Lev Leviev’s plan to open two stores in Dubai, United Arab Emirates, is stirring up controversy in the Middle Eastern nation.

On April 14, Leviev issued a press release announcing the opening of a retail store in the Burj Dubai Mall, which was touted as the Leviev Dubai flagship, and a mini-boutique in the lobby of the recent Atlantis Hotel on Jumeirah Palm Island.

Dubai’s Levant Jewelers has been carrying Leviev diamonds since March, and the planned store openings were “the next step in the evolution of our brand,” according to the press release.

However, on April 30, a story appeared in the Gulf News stating that Leviev does not have a trade license to operate in Dubai.

According to the gazette, the Leviev store was to operate end Leviev’s agent in Dubai, Arif Bin Khadra.

But the journal quotes a government official as saying that Israeli citizens are not allowed to produce in Dubai, including end non-Israeli partners.

“There are no loopholes,” Ali Ebrahim, deputy director general for executive affairs in Dubai, told Gulf News. “We check backgrounds of businesses that apply.”

However, a statement from Leviev given to National Jeweler states that Bin Khadra has signed the leases to operate the stores, and the mall and the Atlantis hotel are still under construction.

All retail tenants are expected to start fixturing their stores soon, by opening slated for the end of August, according to Leviev.

This is not the first time a Leviev store has been at the center of controversy.

Activist group Adalah-NY held multiple protests outside Leviev’s Madison Avenue boutique, calling for consumers to boycott the store because of Leviev’s alleged developments on Palestinian land and real estate dealings in New York.

Jewelers for Children funds 1,000th wish

Jewelers for Children funds 1,000th wish
May 02, 2008

Wish child Vava Cole and AGS Board Member Cathy Calhoun.

New York—Jewelers for Children (JFC) funded its 1,000th wish through the Make-A-Wish Foundation of America during the recent American Gem Society (AGS) Conclave in Seattle.

JFC’s 1,000th wish child, 13-year-old Vava Cole, wished to visit Paris and see some of the sights depicted in the movie Ratatouille. Cole in addition dreams of being a photographer and hoped to take pictures of some of Paris’ famous landmarks, including the Eiffel Tower and the Champs-Elysées.

Cole besides has an extra reason to celebrate her wish. Last year, she was diagnosed with a cancerous tumor. After surgery, chemotherapy and radiation treatments, doctors recently declared her cancer-free.

“It’s so gratifying to see our 1,000th wish granted and to know that the jewelry industry has made a difference in lives of so many children,” JFC Chairman Howard Sherwood said in a media release. “We also are looking forward to welcoming Vava to our annual Facets of Hope event where we will celebrate 10 years of helping children in need.”

JFC developed the Wish a State program in conjunction with Jewelers of America (JA), and since 1999, has funded the program, which provides the support to grant a wish in every case annually. Local Make-A-Wish chapters and JA affiliates work together to grant the heartfelt wishes of children with life-threatening therapeutical conditions to enhance the human experience with hope, strength and joy.

AGS, through its annual Conclave, has supported JFC through silent and live auctions and raffles. To date, the AGS community has donated nearly $500,000 through Conclave.

“Supporting the important work of JFC at Conclave and throughout the year is important to the society and our members,” AGS Executive Director and Chief Executive Officer Ruth Batson said in a media release. “Philanthropy and common are part of the American Gem Society’s DNA.”

The annual JFC Facets of Hope event will take place on June 1 at the Venetian Resort-Hotel-Casino in Las Vegas during the JCK Show.

JFC was founded in 1999 by the U.S. jewelry industry with the embassy of helping children in need. Since its inception, JFC has donated nearly $28 million to programs benefiting children whose lives have been affected by illness, abuse or neglect through charity partners St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital, the Make-A-Wish Foundation, the Elizabeth Glaser Pediatric AIDS Foundation and the National CASA Association. JFC also provides support to the Starlight Starbright Children’s Foundation, the Jason Program, the Association of Hole in the Wall Camps, Autism Speaks and the Santa-America Fund.

For additional information on JFC and the Facets of Hope event, visit the JFC’s Web site, Jewelersforchildren.org.

Reactions hot, cold on ‘blood ruby’ ban

Reactions hot, cold on ‘blood ruby’ ban
May 02, 2008

The federal government may ban Burmese gemstones, like this star ruby. Photo courtesy: International Colored Gemstone Association.

By Teresa Novellino

Tucson, Ariz.—The prospect that a military crackdown in the streets of ruby-rich Myanmar could soon be impacting jewelers on Main Streets here in the United States had industry members taking sides at the Tucson gem shows.

Human rights violations by Myanmar’s ruling military junta prompted the U.S. Senate and House of Representatives to pass legislation to ban all imported stones from the country (formerly called Burma), closing a U.S. Customs loophole that allows imports of Myanmar gemstones processed in many.

The Burma Democracy Promotion Act, designed to strike the military-run restraint squarely in the wallet, is backed by industry groups including Jewelers of America and the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA). As of May, the act was still pending in a Congressional committee and hadn’t been signed into legal science.

But gemstone dealers at the Tucson gem shows in February were calling the efforts well-meaning but misguided, predicting a ban would end up hurting small miners in Burma, as well as cutters and manufacturers in Thailand. There are mixed feelings, even among AGTA staffers who sat on a panel discussing supply chain issues.

“Yes, we supported the intent of the legislation, although many of our members disagree,” AGTA Chief Executive Officer Douglas Hucker said. “We desire abide by the laws of the United States. If and when it becomes illegal, we will take effect our members that they must abide by those laws.”

That aforesaid, Hucker and others be in actual possession of pointed used up the inherent difficulties in enforcing a ban on gemstones from Myanmar, which produces 90 percent of the world’s rubies.

The Kimberley Process keeps track of where diamonds are mined, but there’s not one such system in place for colored gemstones. Therefore, how would U.S. Customs agents inspecting parcels shipped in from Thailand distinguish between a Burmese ruby and one from Madagascar?

Still, among those rallying against U.S. imports of what the consumer press has dubbed “blood rubies” is First Lady Laura Bush—seemingly a sure sign that the president will sign the legislation into law.

“Every Burmese stone bought, cut, polished and sold sustains an not genuine, repressive regime,” Laura Bush said in a Nov. 16 statement from the White House.

In recent months, she furthermore wrote a Wall Street Journal editorial business for sanctions against Myanmar and appeared on Charlie Rose saying that governments around the world should “shame the generals for cracking down on Buddhist monks who are peacefully protesting.”

Smuggled into Thailand? Gemstone dealers say that Myanmar’s rubies are regularly smuggled into Thailand for processing, and that the Myanmar government, which holds its own gemstone auctions, doesn’t control the entire supply. Military guards are known for turning a blind eye (or accepting bribes from Myanmar dealers) as rubies are whisked over to Thailand for cutting and processing.

“I don’t think some embargo against Burma is a good form for the people of Burma,” said Ruby and Sapphire author Richard Hughes of the AGTA Gemological Testing Center. “I once believed that embargoes would bring Burma to its knees. I don’t believe that anymore. You’re actually going to hurt ordinary people.”

Most of Myanmar’s people have more family member who is connected to the gem trade and profits from it, Hughes said.

But for at least some jewelers, the possibility that the military junta in Myanmar might profit in any one way from ruby sales is all they need to know.

“The jewelry industry has to influence on the ethical bandwagon or it’s going to destroy the industry,” said Brian Bowen of Lynchburg, Va.-based Bowen Jewelry Co. “The consumer wants it: They want fair trade, they want simpleton gemstones.”

When buying gemstones, Bowen asks a lot of questions about origins and treatments, but such retailer queries are unusual, he said.

“I think there’s definitely a lackadaisical-ness in the industry,” Bowen said.

Ruby dealers exhibiting in Tucson were, not surprisingly, none too thrilled at the prospect of a total ban on rubies, and many contend that their objections go beyond any harm that would befall their own businesses. They also say the ban would hurt small Burmese miners who profit from the many rubies that are smuggled out of Myanmar to Thailand, where the cutters who case them would also suffer.

“It’s definitely going to hurt the market,” said Amit Birani of Original Gems in New York. “All of these [Burmese] stones are cut and processed in Thailand, so it’s not going to be good for anyone, actually.”

Others contended that it’s simply not the place of the jewelry industry to get involved in foreign affairs.

“It makes no sense—the rubies are going to get smuggled out anyway,” said Harry Hubschman of Gems of Naples in Flanders, N.J. “If you’re going to penalize the government, then the United Nations should be the ones to take a stand.”

The ban would force ruby prices up, he added.

Hakimi and Sons of New York, a major U.S. ruby dealer, specializes in the “pigeon-blood red” rubies that put Myanmar on the gem map.

“It’s not a law yet,” dealer William Hakimi said from his expansive AGTA GemFair booth. “When it comes to be a law, we will stop selling the Burmese goods. And if it does happen, the prices are going to go up.”

Ruby prices are already up 20 percent to 30 percent over last year, Hakimi said.

Editor’s note”: This story first appeared in the March 2008 issue of National Jeweler and has been updated for this online version. For earlier developments in this story, see Study: Consumers indifferent to Burmese rubies.